Sale: New modified
refurbished Canon T3 (1100D) including "EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6
IS Lens" either Baader or Full Spectrum modified: Click
Here for Details
In December 2004, I completed a modification of the original Canon
Digital Rebel (300D) to remove its IR Cut filter. My web pages
that detail the procedure are located HERE.
The modified camera has performed well for me since then with
no problems at all. You can see a gallery of astro images taken
with the modified camera HERE.
Some daytime infrared images are HERE.
April 2008, I completed a modification of the Canon Digital Rebel
XSi (450D) to remove its IR Cut filter and a detailed procedure
follows. Removal of the filter allows for a great increase in
sensitivity to the color red and the H-Alpha wavelength important
for deep sky imaging. Instead of installing a clear optical glass
to replace the original Canon IR Cut filter as I
had done for the 300D modification, I installed a Baader "DSLR
Correcting Filter" which is a much milder UV-IR-Cut filter
that allows the H-Alpha wavelength to pass for deep sky, but blocks
higher infrared wavelengths that cause poor focus and bloated
stars with refractor telescopes and camera lenses. This filter
still allows the 450D to be used with an infrared pass filter,
such as the HOYA R72, to take daytime infrared images with focusing
via the live-view feature. The characteristics of the Baader coatings
can be seen HERE.
I purchased the DSLR version of the filter from Alpine
Astronomical. It allows the camera's autofocus feature to
work. The part number is FBCF400D and is the correct size for
both the Canon XTi (400D) and the Canon XTs (450D). Another option
is to install a clear glass of equal thickness (0.57mm) of the
IR filter to maintain viewfinder focus accuracy and the camera's
autofocus. Lifepixel.com sells such a clear optical glass. A third
option is to just remove the original Canon IR Cut filter and
replace it with nothing, but the autofocus will not work. Since
the 450D has the live view focusing feature, using it instead
would work well for astro imaging (and daytime images) even if
the original IR Cut filter was removed and replaced with nothing.
In January 2008, I modified the Canon Digital Rebel XS (1000D).
The 1000D is nearly identical inside to the 450D. I have updated
the modification instructions here with notes labeled ***1000D in green. The
differences are mostly related to screws. The original IR cut
filter of the 1000D is the same as in the 450D.
In November 2009, I modified the Canon EOS Rebel T1i (500D). There
are some internal changes from previous models including a spring
loaded CMOS Imaging Chip Assembly and use of TORX screws to mount
the assembly. I have updated the modification instructions here
with notes labeled ***500D in red.
550D: In July 2010, I modified
the Canon T2i (550D). It is similar internally to the 500D but
with some changes. I have
updated the modification instructions here with notes labeled
***550D in brown.
1100D: In April 2011, I modified
the Canon EOS Rebel T3 (1100D). I
have updated the modification instructions here with notes labeled
***500D in orange.
600D: In June 2011, I modified
the Canon EOS Rebel T3i (600D). I
have updated the modification instructions here with notes labeled
***600D in dark blue.
650D: In February 2013, I modified
the Canon EOS Rebel T4i (650D). I posted modification instructions
as a video guide on Youtube and also updated the instructions
here as well.
700D: In September 2013, I modified
the Canon EOS Rebel T5i (700D). The 700D modification instructions
are the same as for the 650D, but the 700D has one small plastic
piece added as explained in the instructions. The 650D Modification
Youtube video can be used for a 700D modification as well.
6D: In April 2014, I modified
the full format Canon 6D. I posted modification instructions HERE.
1200D: In 2015, I modified a
T5 camera for Full Spectrum. I posted modifications instructions
650D & 700D MODIFICATION
Full Spectrum Modification
with Astronomik MC Clear Glass: In
March 2010, this high quality multi-coated and optically polished
clear glass replacement from Astronomik became available for DSLR
modifications. I have updated the modification instructions here
with notes labeled in
the color magenta for
the Full Spectrum modification. The Astronomik MC Clear Glass
replacement fits all models and there is a special size made for
the T3 (1100D) model. More info HERE.
450D & 1000D MODIFICATION
Opening the camera will void your
Canon warranty and you may ruin your camera. Proceed at your own risk;
I am not responsible for any damage to your camera or injury to
yourself. The camera contains a high voltage capacitor that stores
lethal energy for the camera flash. The flash capacitor maintains
its charge for a long time even after removing the battery and
this charge can cause dangerous injury or even potentially fatal
These instructions detail how I as an electrical engineer do camera
modifications. If you attempt to modify your own camera it is
at your own risk and I am not responsible for any damage or injury.
I am an electrical engineer and have done other imager modifications
including building a peltier cooled webam
; the Steve Chambers long exposure modification (SC-1) to the
Philips Vesta Webcam; modified Logitech
Fusion , Pro 9000 and Microsoft
Lifecam Cinema HD webcams and modified Canon
300D. The most difficult part of the modification are the
many ribbon (flat) cable connections involved and removal of the
IR cut filter from its holder above the CMOS imaging chip. If
you have a problem with your camera after the modification, it
would most likely be due to a ribbon cable connection not being
fully seated in its connector.
The modification of the 450D,
1000D, 500D, 550D, 600D, 650D, 700D & 1100D is easier than
that of the 300D from the standpoint that there is no de-soldering
or soldering required. The tools needed are very simple as shown
above. From left to right starting at the top of the photo: silicone
glue, #000 size philips screwdriver (#Craftsman #45726), jewelers
screwdriver set bought at the $1 store, exacto razor knife, magnifying
glass, microfiber lens cleaning cloth, cotton photographer's glove
and toothpicks. The cotton photographer's glove is for handling
the bare replacement filter. For the ***500D,
and ***600D modification, you will also need a Torx
T-7 driver. For
the Full Spectrum modification with the Astronomik MC Clear Glass
replacement, a digital micrometer will be needed for measuring
shims and a feeler gauge will be needed to fashion replacement
and ***600D, rubber tipped flat head tweezers are needed for removing
and inserting ribbon cables. I made a pair by gluing thin rubber
on metal flat head tweezers.
by Brent Maynard on The 500D mod: "I tried two different
T7 drivers, and could not get a bite on the screws. I used a T6,
and that worked fine. Canon could be using different sizes."
by Skyler: "A really handy item was Nitrile gloves. They
keep the insides of the camera clean w/o leaving finger oil marks
on components. Skyler also recommended using surgical forceps
that have long thin noses and work great at grabbing those thin
film conductors." See MODIFIER COMMENTS for his advice.
by Oz: "Use a fine tip sharpie and draw a line on each of
the ribbon cables where the ribbon exits the connector before
disconnecting the cable. This will give positive visual feedback
when reconnecting the cables to assure they are fully seated and
square before locking the connector tabs."
you may want to take a few "before modification" photos
to later check how focus and clarity of image is affected by the
modification. Although only needed in a very dry environment,
you may want to wear a grounded wrist strap for static protection
while handling electrical components.
the modification for the Full Spectrum modification with the Astronomik
MC Clear Glass replacement only, make sure to disable auto cleaning
of the sensor. Select Menu/Sensor Cleaning/Auto Cleaning and set
to "Disable". After the modification is completed, be
sure NOT to select "Clean now" in the same menu item.
Always select "Clean manually" following the owner's
For the many small screws removed,
you can tape them to a piece of paper with notes on step number
and size, location and assembly step, in the order of removal.
You can print out and use these these screw sheets for each model:
450D - 500D
- 550D - 1000D
You can place the circuit boards
removed in Glad plastic food containers to keep dust-free.
For the T5 (1200D) modification
1. Remove the lens and place the front cover
on the camera body to keep dust out. Remove battery, SD card and
viewfinder cap. The viewfinder cap slides up. There will be three
screws under the cap that need to be removed. The upper left screw
may be longer than the other two. ***550D,
600D & 1100D:
600D, 650D, 700D and 1100D only have two screws.
2. Remove four screws from bottom of camera
3. Remove one screw from side of camera:
***1000D has 2 (short) screws here instead of
one long screw. For ***600D,
650D & 700D skip to
650D & 700D only. The
black rubber grippy material needs to be peeled back in order
to access four screws. Use a small flat head driver to lift up
the corner of the material and peel it back. Remove all four screws
as shown. The 600D screws are the phillips type; the 650D &
700D are the torx type. The plastic port cover can now be removed.
4. Remove two screws from other side of camera:
***1000D: both screws are short. ***1100D: both screws are long.
5. Remove screws located near neck strap
mounts. One screw is short; the other is long as shown:
6. Remove rubber piece as shown below. It
is adhesive backed and can be easily removed by prying one corner
up with an exacto razor knife and lifting the rest of the piece
off with your fingers. The rubber piece needs to come off to allow
the plastic camera body to come apart. It can be easily put back
on after re-assembly.
***1000D & ***1100D:
rubber grip piece so skip this step.
All screws have now been removed
and the back half of the camera body will be removed as explained
on the next page.
***600D For 600D only, continue with steps HERE.
& 700D For 650D &
700D only, continue with steps HERE.
Next Page - Camera
----Order these two guides by Jerry
Lodriguss for DSLR Astro-imaging----
So you now have a modified DSLR
for astro imaging. If you are a beginner to DSLR astrophotography,
your next best step is to learn all you can about using your modified
DSLR. When I complete camera modifications for owners, I get many
questions afterward about how to use the camera, including: How
to get precise focus? Which exposure settings to use? How to calibrate,
align and stack exposures? How to adjust white balance? How to
I am happy to advise and welcome
all questions, but the best advice I can give is to order "A
Beginner's Guide To DSLR Astrophotography". The book
on CD-ROM is authored by Jerry Lodriguss, a professional photographer,
amateur astronomer and astrophotographer. Based on his over 25
years of astrophotography experience, he makes it an easy learning
process to capture and process astro images. Jerry also has a
more advanced book on CD-ROM available: "A
Guide to Astrophotography with DSLR Cameras". Consider
arming yourself with both these books on CD-ROM, read them at
your leisure and maximize your potential for capturing and creating
the most spectacular DSLR astro images your modified camera can
in the United States can place orders for Jerry's Books on CD-ROM
Domestic orders for "A Beginner's
Guide To DSLR Astrophotography".
Domestic orders for "A Guide to Astrophotography
with DSLR Cameras".
outside of the United States can place orders for Jerry's Books
on CD-ROM here:
Foreign orders for "A Beginner's
Guide To DSLR Astrophotography".
Foreign orders for "A Guide to Astrophotography
with DSLR Cameras".
MY MAIN ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY PAGE
Rebel - Canon Digital DSLR - Digital Camera - Canon 450D - Canon
Xsi - Canon 1000D - Canon XS - Canon Digital Rebel XT - Canon
Digital Rebel 350 - Canon Digital Rebel 350XT
with Canon Digital Rebel XT Camera