3 of assembly instructions continued:
For the final
steps we will be installing the small fan and insulating the cooler
24. We will now pick up where
we left off in Step 6 on Page 1. Connect the peltier wires, black
to black and red to red and solder. I used heat
to protect the connections.
25. Use small (red) plastic
wall anchors and secure to fan with the four original fan screws.
Push the fan with anchors into the heat sink fins to secure the
fan as shown below:
26. Cut out foam pieces from
styrofoam cooler using a hack saw blade as follows:
27. Place Front piece of
cut styrofoam on front of cooling chamber and trace the T-ring
hole and flash nosepiece hole. Use template made in Step 21 of
Page 2 to mark the center hole for the hole saw drill bit. Cut
a 2 1/4" hole in the styrofoam by turning the hole saw by
hand. Remove the styrofoam to a depth of about 1/8" with
a razor knife for the flash nose piece.
28. Apply a small amount
into the gap between the peltier and aluminum chamber.
29. Using 5-minute epoxy,
glue the cut foam pieces to the aluminum chamber to insulate it.
Fill any small gaps with the foam sealant. After cured, trim any
excess foam sealant that has expanded and fine sand smooth:
30. Drill a 1/4" hole
through the styrofoam for the camera tripod socket. Test fit a
1/4 -20 size bolt for securing the camera. I use a 1 inch 1/4
- 20 thumbscrew and a large nylon washer.
31. When the Canon 450D is
placed on the bottom of the aluminum cooling chamber, the camera's
metal tripod socket does not come in direct contact with the aluminum
chamber because the socket is recessed very slightly into the
camera's plastic body. This is not good for thermal conductance,
so I made a very thin washer by grinding down a small 5 mm washer.
I applied a little thermal paste as well; it can't hurt.
32. Hot glue weather stripping
to top of cooling chamber for a good seal. I used 3/4" wide
by 3/16" thick vinyl foam weatherseal.
33. Now add an inner shield
to the top styrofoam piece. To do this, cut a piece of styrofoam
3" by 6.5". Epoxy this inner shield to the top styrofoam
piece and cover with aluminum tape. Trim the corner of this piece
where wires will exit the cooling chamber from the camera:
34. To help seal the aluminum
chamber, apply a piece of aluminum tape to the slot made in the
chamber for the camera's flash nose piece:
35. Splice both fan wires
to leads from the cool/off/warm switch and solder. I used shrink
wrap tubing as shown:
36. Apply thermal paste around
the thermal sticky pad of the blue round heatsink/fan as shown
in the above photo. Clean the metal peltier support plate with
denatured alcohol and secure the round fan into position with
the sticky pad onto the support plate. Route the fan wires through
gap in weatherstripping as shown below. I also added a wired temperature
probe from a small indoor/outdoor battery powered digital thermometer.
37. Hot glue small blue fan
wires to edge of heatsink as shown below:
38. Drill a 5/32 inch hole
in corner of heatsink as shown. Use two plastic tie wraps to act
as strain relief to secure the fan and peltier cables. Cut off
ends of tie wraps.
Photo of completed
camera cooler on scope below. I used a light-weight plastic
as an organizer for the cables going to the camera cooler.
After you build
a camera cooler, you can do dark frame and cooling tests. See
the tests performed and results for my cooler HERE.
Some tips on using
your camera cooler can be seen HERE.
Light image of the Veil Nebula with the pelteir cooled Canon 450D
can be seen HERE.